Skip to content

2002 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon – Bottle Notes

Leonetti Cellar was founded in 1977 by Gary and Nancy Figgins. Leonetti, along with Quilceda Creek and Woodward Canyon put premium Washington Cabernet Sauvignon on the radar of wine consumers across the United States. Leonetti also produces one of the very best domestic Merlots.

Leonetti is near and dear to me as a wine consumer, and I’ve been on their mailing list for 15 years. Vintages like the ’92 Merlot and ’98 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon are included among my most memorable wines.

Fruit from Leonetti Estate, Mill Creek Upland, Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge Vineyards. 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Carmenere. 14.4% ABV. Still a brilliant purple in color. Heady aromas of black cherry, black licorice and spice. Cassis, cocoa, leather, raspberries, plums, currants and cherries on the palate. Richly textured with great acidity. Properly cellared bottles will drink well for at least another decade.

My rating: 94 points.

Leonetti has a full mailing list but the wine is readily available at retail in late-March. The winery has done an exceptional job at holding the line on prices and you should be able to find bottles right around $85.

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email

2010 “Birth Year” Case Wine Recommendations

Many wine collectors, myself included, have the romantic notion of buying a case of wine from their child’s birth year to give them upon their 21st birthday. I’m not going to get into the wisdom of giving a 21 year old first growth Bordeaux, but I do like the thought of having some fun bottles on hand to open at birthday dinners, graduations, weddings, etc. Last year I put together a list for a 2009 “Birth Year” case, and thought I’d continue the tradition.

Collectors with children born in 2010 have a wealth of options as quality was high in most regions including Napa, Bordeaux and Chateauneuf du Pape. With high quality though comes high prices, so for this birth year case I am lifting the bottle price ceiling from $100 to $150.

My main criteria for inclusion is the likelihood of the wine to age gracefully over 20 years or more. For this particular case, I’m not going to include more than two wines from a single region. Most of these 2010 bottles listed are available at retail right now.

  1. Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon – Region: Napa Valley, Score: Wine Advocate 95+, Price: $135
  2. Betz Family Winery Pere de Famille – Region: Washington, Score: Wine Advocate 95, Price: $70
  3. Leoville Barton – Region: Bordeaux, Score: Wine Advocate 96, Price: $140
  4. Canon La Gaffeliere – Region: Bordeaux, Score: Wine Advocate 95, Price: $110
  5. Rieussec – Region: Sauternes, Score: Wine Spectator 93-96, Price: $80
  6. M. Chapoutier “Le Méal” Ermitage Blanc – Region: Northern Rhone, Score: Wine Advocate 96-98, Price: $140
  7. Domaine de la Mordorée “Reine des Bois” – Region: Southern Rhone, Score: Wine Advocate: 97, Price $110
  8. Vieux Telegraphe – Region: Southern Rhone, Score: Wine Advocate 97, Price: $80
  9. Joh Jos Prum Riesling Spatlese Graacher Himmelreich – Region: Germany, Score: Wine Advocate 92, Price: $33
  10. Mugnier Nuits-St-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru – Region: Burgundy, Score: Wine Advocate 93, Price: $80
  11. Fontodi Flaccianello – Region: Tuscany, Score: Wine Spectator 96, Price: $140
  12. El Nido Bodegas El Nido – Region: Spain, Score: Not yet rated, Price: $120

What 2010 wines have you cellared for your children born in that year?

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

 

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email

2009 Black Sears Zinfandel – Bottle Notes

In 1979, Joyce Black and Jerre Sears purchased a one-of-a-kind property at the top of Howell Mountain. In 1997, Joyce and Jerre began producing very small quantities of estate-bottled Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel for their new Black Sears label, a few hundred cases per vintage. For twelve years, winemaker Ted Lemon called the Black Sears winery home, producing both the Black Sears wines and his own Littorai Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But in 2007 Ted fulfilled a lifelong dream and built his own winery in Sebastopol.

Soon thereafter, Joyce and Jerre learned that their friends and neighbors down Summit Lake Drive at Outpost needed some additional capacity. Winemaker Thomas Brown was taking on more projects, and Outpost’s facility was running out of room for them all. Moreover, Thomas needed open-top tanks so he could make Pinot and Chardonnay for his own Rivers Marie label. Thomas and cellar-master Andrew Jones now inhabit the Black Sears winery, where they craft wines for their own label, Rivers Marie, Schrader and others.

The 37 year old vines for the 2009 Zinfandel are on an east-facing plot at the absolute top of Howell Mountain. 15.6% ABV. The wine cherry red in color. Lighter in color than I would have expected for a four year old Zinfandel. Red fruits and white pepper on the nose. Cherries, peppercorns, figs and bramble fruits on the palate. Rich and sweet but not jammy. Modest tannins. The wines from this vineyard have a track record of aging extremely well but I would be inclined to drink this over the next 2-4 years.

My rating: 93 points.

The fact that this bottle was shared with my brother and his wife on a warm Spring night in Phoenix made it all the more better!

The Black Sears Zinfandel priced around $50 and is only available via the mailing list. The 2011 version will be released in the Spring of 2014.

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email

2004 Williams Selyem Zinfandel Bacigalupi Vineyard – Bottle Notes

Williams Selyem Winery began when Ed Selyem and Burt Williams started making wine as a hobby in 1979 in Forestville, California. Their first commercial release was in 1981, and in less than two decades they  created a cult-status winery of international acclaim. Setting a new standard for Pinot Noir winemaking, they put Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley at the forefront of the best Pinot Noir regions in the world.

Today, John and Kathe Dyson, who purchased the winery from Burt and Ed in 1998, work with winemaker Bob Cabral to carry on the passion for Pinot Noir without compromise.

Williams Selyem gets the vast majority of their publicity for their Pinot Noirs. In recent years though, I have begun to think their Zinfandels rival the best of the Pinot Noir lineup. The Zins are sourced from exceptional old vine vineyards like Papera, Forchini and Bacigalupi.

The Bacigalupi family has been farming grapes in the heart of the Russian River Valley for over 50 years. Located off the famed Westside Road just west of the town of Healdsburg, the Bacigalupi vineyard has become known for consistently producing world class Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel.

The wine is a light ruby red, almost rust in color. 15.2% ABV. Jammy aromatics of blueberries and strawberries. Licorice, pepper, briar and plums on the palate. Elegant and balanced with soft tannins. Textbook “claret style” Zinfandel. Beautiful wine.

Note to self…buy more Zinfandel from Williams Selyem.

My rating: 93 points.

Williams Selyem can periodically be found at retail, but the mailing list is highly recommended. Current vintages of the Williams Selyem Zinfandels run $55 off the mailing list.

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email

Vintage Charts Only Tell Half the Story

When I first started collecting wine I paid so much attention to vintage charts and rankings. I would buy sparingly from mediocre vintages like ’89 Napa Cabernets but I would back the truck up for a vintage like 1990. Nowadays I find myself paying far less attention to vintages and far more attention to producers.

What changed my mind? I realized, in some respects, vintage rankings are completely useless.

For instance, many publications rate broad categories such as California Pinot Noir. There is a huge difference between the Russian River Valley and the Sonoma Coast, not to mention other appellations including Anderson Valley, Mendocino and even areas like Paso Robles, that it does the consumer no good to read sweeping generalizations about an entire vintage. I know many collectors who passed on 2008 California Pinot Noir because of wildfires in the Anderson Valley, and to a lesser extent the Sonoma Coast. In actuality, most producers outside of the immediate area were not impacted by smoke taint whatsoever. I’m happy to have plenty of ’08s in the cellar from producers like Rochioli and Dehlinger.

A second issue I have with vintage charts is that they overlook the fact that supposedly “underwhelming” vintages can in fact produce some stellar wines. 2004 and 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape have always been overshadowed by the outstanding 2005 vintage. Both ’04 and ’06 rated a respectable 90 points, which only seems low when compared to the ’05′s 95 points. That being said, I have recently had some stunning ’04 CdP including Barroche Pure and Clos St. Jean Deus Ex Machina. If you skipped ’04 based on vintage rating alone you’re missing out on some great bottles that can still be found at very fair prices.

Finally, it’s common for the vintages with flashier, fruitier wines tend to get the high scores. It is becoming apparent that the 2010 vintage in Napa produced some outstanding, ripe Cabernets. But I know many collectors who are actually looking forward to the greener (and certain to be lower rated) 2011 vintage because the wines will likely be more old world in style. Think back to the high scoring ’97 Napa Cabernets vis a vis the lower scoring ’98′s. In retrospect many now prefer the ’98′s.

So for me, having been at this for nearly 25 years, my focus has shifted to the producer more so than the vintage. I will still sit out vintages that are a complete wipeout like ’02 CdP. Other than that, I will happily buy favorite producers, even in lesser vintages, with the expectation that quality is high and the bottles will be fairly priced.

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email

2005 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve – Bottle Notes

Chateau Rayas is one of the most famous estates in Chateauneuf du Pape, in France’s southern Rhone Valley. Founded in the late 19th century by Albert Reynaud, a lawyer and notary from Avignon, the estate is today run Emmanuel Reynaud, the fourth generation of the family to take control of the 56-acre estate with its 37 acres of vineyards. About three-quarters of the estate’s wines are reds and are comprised mostly of Grenache. The Reynaud family also owns and operates Chateau de Fonsalette and Chateau des Tours, both producers of Rhone Valley wines.

Robert M. Parker Jr. has called Chateau Rayas “one of the mythical names of France” because of its outstanding Chateauneuf du Papes.

I recently had the chance to connect with good friend and fellow wine blogger Adam Japko. We went to dinner at Canlis, without question one of Seattle’s finest restaurants. Adam had the generous foresight to send a bottle of 2005 Rayas in advance.

The wine was surprisingly light red in color. I was expecting something darker and more brooding as that has been my experience recently with other 05 CdP’s. The nose on the wine was phenomenal. Slightly funky at first, it blew off to reveal bacon fat, minerals and flowers. The palate had layers upon layers of blood, iron, kirsch, plum, game, band-aid, asian spices and cherries. This wine is the proverbial iron fist in the velvet glove. Elegant but at the same time powerful. Silky, lush, breathtaking and beguiling. The finish is long and plush. The wine should age gracefully for at least another 20 years. My rating: 97 points.

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email

1999 Argiano Solengo – Bottle Notes

Argiano dates back to the 16th century. The nearly 120 acres of vineyards are planted to Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Syrah. The wines, both Brunello di Montalcino and super Tuscans, have routinely received outstanding scores. In 1992 Argiano was acquired by the Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano.

The ’99 Solengo is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and Syrah. 13% ABV. Violet in color. Dried cherries and wet asphalt on the nose. The palate features cherries, leather, rose petals, tar, tobacco, plums, peppers, cedar and menthol. Classically structured with a touch of acidity. This wine will show well over the next 3-5 years. My rating: 93 points.

I brought several bottles of this wine back from Italy after visiting the Cinque Terra in 2001 and it will always have a special place in my cellar. Current vintages can be found for around $75 and are well worth the hunt.

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email

Efeste Spring 2013 Release Party

Efeste, pronounced like the letters “F-S-T” strung together, was named after the last names of founders Helen & Dan Ferrelli, Patrick Smith, and Kevin & Angela Taylor. Efeste is located in the Warehouse District of Woodinville, Washington. Peter Devison took over full-time winemaking duties when Brennon Leighton left to work with Charles Smith in 2012.

My wife Lisa is a member of the wine club, so this past Saturday we made a trip to the winery for the semi-annual wine club party and pickup. They may be located in the Warehouse District, but their winery is big, warm and welcoming. The winery has a working kitchen complete with a wood fired pizza oven. Throughout the release they served a variety of delicious thin crust, artisan pizzas.

The wines poured included the 2011 Evergreen Riesling, ’12 Sauvage Sauvignon Blanc, ’12 Feral Sauvignon Blanc, ’10 Final Final, ’10 Big Papa and ’10 Tough Guy. The quality was high across the board. Below are notes on my favorite white and red.

2011 Evergreen Riesling – The fruit is sourced from Evergreen Vineyard. Without question one of the more exciting sites for white wines in the state of Washington. Flowers and petrol on the nose. Lemons, flint and minerals on the palate. Bright acidity. $20 at the winery. My rating: 90 points.

2010 Tough Guy – Predominantly Merlot with fruit sourced from Klipsun Vineyard. Opaque purple in color. Cherries and mineral on the nose. Currants and anise on the palate. Incredibly rich and sweet fruit. Super supple and sexy. This wine is amazing now but should age well for a decade. One of the better Washington Merlots in recent memory. $55 at the winery. My rating: 94 points.

After tasting through the new releases we had the opportunity to do a little barrel tasting with Peter Devison. The highlights were the ’12 Stonetree Vineyard Mourvedre which will be a component of the Emmy, the ’12 Boushey Syrah which will make up the Jolie Bouche Syrah and the ’12 Klipsun Merlot which will go into the Tough Guy. Honestly though, every sample was super.

Efeste is firing on all cylinders. The whites, including those mentioned above and their two chardonnays are some of the best in the state. The winery has been doing memorable Syrahs for many years and, with the Tough Guy, they’ve taken their Bordeaux style wines to the next level as well.

There’s a lot to like at Efeste. I encourage you to buy a bottle of any of these wines and let me know what you think.

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email

2009 Bedrock Stellwagen Vineyard Zinfandel – Bottle Notes

The 2009 Bedrock Stellwagen Vineyard Zinfandel was the winning bottle in the April installment of Pick My Next Bottle.

Bedrock Wine Co. was founded by Morgan Twain-Peterson in 2007 and focuses on small production wines from several of California’ s most treasured and historic vineyards. The lineup of wines at Bedrock is expanding rapidly, but I think the best of the best are the ancient vineyard Zinfandels Morgan is clearly passionate about.

Stellwagen Vineyard was planted around 1890, and lies less than a half-mile north from Bedrock Vineyard. Like most ancient vineyards of this age, the vineyard is about 10% mixed blacks, with lots of Petite Sirah, Syrah, Carignane, a trace of Semillon, and a “mystery vine” which Morgan Twain-Peterson is committed to one day identifying.

I knew this was going to be the winning bottle for the better part of a day, but I only managed to pop and pour it just before a homemade sausage pizza was pulled from the oven.

Purple in color. 15.3% ABV. Raspberry liqueur and fresh strawberries on the nose. Raspberry compote, bramble fruits, pepper and a hint of vanilla on the palate. The wine is rich, creamy and seamless. The finish is long and spicy. No need for a long tasting note here. This is just a delicious wine that is a total joy to drink. Drink over the next 1-3 years. My rating: 92 points.

Run, don’t walk, to get on the mailing list at Bedrock.

I’ve blogged about Bedrock previously in Zinfandel Chronicles Power Rankings.

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email

2006 Grand Rêve Vintners / Force Majeure Collaboration Series II – Bottle Notes

Previously known as Grand Rêve, Force Majeure was founded in 2004 by Paul McBride and Ryan Johnson. Force Majeure pairs some of Washington’s highly acclaimed winemakers with fruit from one of Washington’s highly acclaimed vineyards, Ciel du Cheval. The winemakers contributing to the Collaboration Series is a Who’s Who of Washington winemakers including Ben Smith, Carolyn Lakewold, Chris Gorman, James Mantone, Mark McNeilly, Mike McMorran and Ross Mickel.

The ’06 Collaboration Series II is a blend of 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier and was made by Ross Mickel of Ross Andrew Winery. 14.9% ABV. Still dark purple in color. Dark fruits, olive brine and peppercorn aromas emerge with a little bit of coaxing. Game, flowers, blueberries, bacon fat, minerals, smoke and maybe a hint of brown sugar on the palate. The finish is long and exquisite. Great texture and balance. If I had more bottles…I would enjoy them over the next 2-4 years.

My rating: 93 points.

The ’09 CS II was released early last year at a price of $55.

Force Majeure warrants your attention and (as I write this) the winery is still accepting names for their mailing list.

If you enjoyed this post please consider subscribing to Zinfandel Chronicles updates by email.

Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on LinkedInShare via email